As Paris closes it’s doors on another fashion week the feeling I am left with from the Fall 2011 collections is ‘Now I can breathe again.’ And I mean this in the most literal sense. Gone are the days tensing my stomach to hide any unsightly bulges in my body-con dresses, pulling at the length to what seemed to be an ever shrinking hem line and lets not even mention the shoulder-pads, finally we can put the nail in the coffin of the 80s (well, almost, looking at you, boxy jackets making a comeback). A new era of fashion seems to have finally descended, one not based around celebrating the female form in a way which exaggerates our assets or in some cases exposes our lack there of but one that makes us comfortable, cool, yet effortlessly glamorous.
The label that epitomised this new era best, in my opinion, was Missoni. Although it has been widely regarded for some time that daughter of Angela, Margherita Missoni will become the heir to the Missoni fashion empire it was younger daughter Teresa who provided the inspiration for this collection. Teaming the slouchy over-sized jumpers with long skirts and a man coat slung nonchalantly over the top were counteracted by the typically Missoni palette with stunning embroidery which juxtaposed the whole collection with an over-riding sense of femininity.
This same essence was felt in Antonio Marras’ collection. Effortless femininity.
It is this crucial point which sets apart this coming fall’s fashion from us merely all becoming Annie Hall carbon copies, when channeling the 1970s revival (not that I would have ANY problem with that of course). But femininity is the essential and over-riding presence in slightly male tailoring. Gucci’s trousers were slouchy and wide legged, but teamed with a sinched in waste, a bright colour palette and heels this look is all sensuality and elegance.
Despite the blatant protest from Jean Paul Gautier, who styled all his models in grey beehives this look, I’m afraid, does not have to be mature. My favourite collection from Paris came from Carven who proved that a dropped hemline and androgynous tailoring can be fresh and wearable for all the young’uns. Look kids! No need to bare flesh! What can be sexier than clothes coming from a designer who cites Simone-de-Beauvoir and Lee Miller as his muses? This is truly intelligent fashion for the intelligent girl, styled with splashes of the painfully cool, (those sunglasses are an essential purchase for spring and fall) and just the right balance between preppy and avant-garde.
So, there it is a short guide to what to expect in the Fall fashions for 2011 and I didn’t even touch on Chanel!(slouchy and luxurious to the max) Women everywhere, this is our time to throw away the skinny jeans for good, no really I promise, just look at the evidence. Go forth and be comfortable.... Except for the heels (YSL), that will take some practice.
All photos from Style.com
